Thawing Glaciers, Thawing Blogs

After two years of no posting (yeah, I haven't gotten a lot of travelling in... yay school) and around four years after having started this blog, I am happy to announce that I just got word that I will be receiving funding from the National Research Foundation of Luxembourg to go to Luxembourg to finish my Ph.D. I'm quite excited.

Only problem is that I don't know yet when I'll get to go over there, so more info to come, but... yeah, this is really exciting.

Variety: The Spice of Life

Before coming to Korea, I didn't really have much in the way of experiences with Korean food. Part of the reason being that my mother really doesn't make it due to a bad experience with it in the past and because Korean restaurants aren't that common in the US; sure, there are some here and there, especially near military installations and where there are a lot of them, but, regardless, they are few and far between. So my stay in Korea definitely has been a bit of an adventure on the food front.

A nice thing, though, is that the cafeteria/canteen in the building in which I work serves a very cheap, often filling lunch (3500 won, equivalent to US$3.20 or so). So, while the quality may not be the best, it's a good introduction to decent Korean cuisine for not very much.

Pretty much, here's a rundown of some of the Korean food I've encountered:
kimchi: Fermented cabbage, radish, or cucumber, usually covered in red chilis. In some form or another, expect it to appear at every meal.
rice (bap): Appears also in many different forms, whether white or black (and the black rice is very good).
gochujang: Red pepper paste made from slightly fermented red chilis. Common to top rice. Good gochujang is really nice and not overly spicy, but the most common one they serve tends to be just hot.
naengmyeon: Cold noodle soup, featuring cooked noodles and a frequently spicy broth. Normally also served with vegetables and/or egg.
bibimbap: A mixed rice dish where rice is combined with vegetables and (sometimes) meat or another protein, sometimes topped with egg, and served with gochujang. Comes in lots of different kinds, with a classic one being dolsot bibimbap (where the meal comes in a hot ceramic bown and, if topped with an egg, the egg cooks in front of your eyes).
Korean barbecue: Thinly-sliced meats, like pork rashers and/or beef, and chopped vegetables grilled at your table. By your own hands. Normally served with a sweeter sauce, salt, and lots of soju.
soju: Korean distilled rice liquor, very similar to vodka but with half the alcoholic content. Plentiful and cheap here, so it's the go-to booze when people want to get totally smashed.

Also notable are the numerous written and unwritten conventions when one goes out for food and drinking. For one, unlike in France or Germany where a person going out to eat alone isn't really looked at funnily, eating in Korea is very much a social activity: in most Korean-style restaurants, individual plates aren't prepared for each person. Instead, while each person normally gets their own bowl of rice or noodles, the dishes are set down to be consumed communally; using your chopsticks, you pull bits off the communal plate to your own plate before consuming it. And the normal method of serving seems to be many small dishes in sequence rather than all the dishes for the appetizer, main course, dessert, or whatever coming out simultaneously. So the effect appears as if it's a lot of small, quick courses. For example, when I went to a restaurant with a lot of the people from my lab this past Friday, there was so much food and in so many courses; soups, salads, vegetables of all kinds, meats, fish dishes, and so forth. It's a very different style of eating, one that I'm not completely used to, but it's sorta growing on me. A bit.

Using chopsticks has also turned out to be a bit of an adventure here in Korea. Most meals have two utensils involved: a set of metal chopsticks and a matching metal spoon. Unlike in China and Japan, the spoon is used actually for eating rice, but also used for soups and messy things. Chopsticks are used for most other applications. And living in Korea is the first time I've really had to use chopsticks, so... it's been a learning experience. That said, the border between "chopstick dish" and "spoon dish" is a bit blurry sometimes, so you just look around at what the other Koreans are doing, smile, and continue on with what you were doing. Normally, offense isn't taken if you make a good-faith effort to not be offensive... I think. And the normal things with chopsticks apply here: never leave chopsticks standing upright in a bowl of rice, never position them in a certain way...

Otherwise, things here in Korea seem to be going rather slowly. Might be because of the weather and the humidity: arriving during the monsoon season wasn't, in retrospect, the best idea. But things here are just so different from other places I've lived, both with the sights, sounds, and sensory overload with all the flashing lights. This place really does feel like a melding pot of traditions and cultures; people seem to want to hold on tightly to the traditions like the hierarchy, food, dress (in some cases), and ceremony while wanting to modernize and become powerful and prosperous. Whether or not both can be accomplished at the same time... I dunno.

So, yeah, that's it from here. There may be some pics coming soon, especially with more exploration on the horizon. And, with that, have a good rest of your week.

The Land of the Morning Something

Note: For one of the first times since I turned 18, I'm actually travelling with someone else on this trip. This is why I use "we" and "our" a lot.

Well, I'm now in South Korea. And it was quite an interesting experience getting here. And getting over jet-lag has been... interesting. As have been a lot of other things, so here are some bits from the past five days of our adventure here.

Anyways, the original plan was to leave from Cleveland-Hopkins Airport early (at around 8) on the morning of the 11th, have a reasonable 3-hour layover in Detroit, and then take a thirteen-hour flight from there into Seoul-Incheon, arriving at a reasonable hour on the 12th. We did arrive at a reasonable hour on the 12th, but...

The initial CLE-DTW flight got cancelled. Not cool. And it automatically rebooked us on a flight that would leave from Cleveland at 6 in the evening and put us into Seoul at 4 in the morning on the 13th. Even less cool. After talking with the Delta agent, what we were able to get was a flight that left from Cleveland an hour later than the original flight and went into LaGuardia Airport in New York and, from there, we'd need to take a taxi from LaGuardia to JFK Airport for a flight that would leave for Seoul about 3 hours later. Long story short, the traffic in NYC was reasonably painless and we made it to JFK with plenty of time to spare, got checked in rather quickly, and were through security and waiting on our flight in no time.

The flight was, in fact, long. Thirteen hours on Korean Air. The service seemed somewhat disturbingly attentive, though: two meal services, two snack services, beverage services throughout the flight, and several duty-free carts coming and going through the plane. So we were at least sorta taken care of for when we landed at a very foggy Incheon Airport. Immigration was painless (though it involved being fingerprinted and photographed) and Customs was likewise straightforward and, two hours later, we were at our destination and checked in to the place we'll be staying for the month. It's a very small accommodation: the shower, toilet, and sink are all together in one "cabinet", and there's not much space at all. But it'll work.

Saturday and Sunday were designated for exploring, getting acclimated to Suwon (the city in which we're staying), and popping into Seoul, including a trip to the Money Museum at the Bank of Korea. Now that the week's started as normal, we're starting some of the science; in particular, we're getting to know the people we're working with (all very nice) and the equipment. So hopefully there'll be some good results to be brought back to the US with us.

As for the food... well, I'm quickly learning how to use chopsticks, and that's an adventure... especially since the Koreans like using flat metal chopsticks that are sorta kinda hard to grab things with. At least rice is customarily consumed with a spoon, so that's not too hard. And Koreans love red chilis: practically every main dish is flavored with them in varying quantities. Getting used to that level of spiciness is taking a bit, but it's coming along.

So, yeah, more to come soon. With that, have a good rest of your weeks.

Thawing Out

This blog in meant to be a blog of my experiences in travelling abroad and the such; I started it back in May of 2011 before I went to Germany and France. Once I returned to the US, though, I stopped blogging because it didn't seem "necessary" anymore. But I always thought that, were I to go out of the country, the blog would be revived on that occasion.

And... that occasion has come. In about one month's time, I will be going to the Republic of Korea for a month-long scientific project in collaboration with some people there, the topic being electrospinning. I don't know too much about it, but I'm sure I'll get an earful/eyeful very soon. Not to mention it'll be a potentially interesting destination: I've never been to Asia. The furthest east I've been is Romania, so this'll be a very different experience altogether.

So, yeah. That's about it for now. More info to come.

Back Stateside Again

This post is coming a bit late, but, after 10½ months in Europe, all things had to come to an end and, a week ago, I left France and came back to the US.

However, I didn't go quietly; since I had to go to Lyon to go to the airport, I decided to make a nice trip out of it. So I spent four days in Lyon combined with a daytrip to Geneva, Switzerland. Lyon is quite pretty and easy to get around; probably as much to see as in Paris, but without the size of the French capital. And a lot of the good things in Lyon are free, so there was no need to hemorrhage money left and right. Definitely a plus.
Geneva was cute and adorable... and very expensive. I went there with the express purpose of spending money and sightseeing (I had a large number of Swiss Francs I wanted to get rid of), and both missions were accomplished, but it's amazing how much prices jump once you enter the tiny little country. Still, though, the added benefit of Switzerland is that the product selection is very different compared to that in France... seems more like a hybrid of what you'd find in Germany and what you'd find in France, all squished into a single package. In any event, I got lotsa good pictures and had a very good time before...

On the 1st of May, however, it was time to return to the US. Leaving on the first, however, was a mistake logistically... because, in France, 1 May is la fête du travail, or Labor Day. For most French public holidays, things, like public transport, still run; I arrived back in France after winter break on 1 January, and that wasn't a problem. However, Labor Day in France is special and, as a result, the Lyon public transport network was completely non-operational that day.

Fortunately, what wasn't offline was the express tram from Lyon to the airport. So, I took a taxi from my hostel to the train station and the tram from the Lyon Part-Dieu station to the Lyon St-Exupéry Airport. And, with it being a holiday (perhaps), the airport was practically deserted. Definitely a plus.

Getting checked in and through security in Lyon was fairly straightforward and painless, and the airport seemed to operate a lot like a US airport in layout. Not much airside, but still a decent amount. The flight from there to Paris was short (1 hour), so it wasn't bad at all.

Connecting in Paris, however, was... fun. I was in one terminal and had to go to another. Fortunately, there was a pedestrian route, so I started following that. First, there was exit control; guy took my passport, turned to a blank page, and stamped it in a matter-of-fact manner. I then thought, cool, the gate shouldn't be far away. That was a misjudgment... it took about 20 minutes to walk to another surprise security control. And after that was the gate.

Airside was, fortunately, a bit less deserted than the first time I went through de Gaulle airport, but still overpriced and with not a good selection. Fortunately, I didn't have too long until I got to board the plane. This plane was the largest I had been on... an Airbus 380. A fully double-decked plane... I was on the lower level, but it was still awesome. The flight was long, the food wasn't too bad, and the seat neighbors weren't too horrible... just like usual.

When we landed at JFK airport, it felt a bit like Heathrow all over again... a bit of a walk to Immigration, and the line I didn't go to was jam-packed with people waiting. Getting through immigration and customs was fast and painless (and, fortunately, not very unfriendly) and the terminal I arrived at and the one I needed to go to weren't separated by much, so it was a short walk. And more waiting once through security. The flight from JFK back into Charlotte arrived... early. By about an hour. So I needed to wait around a bit for my father to arrive and, after he got me, we made the three-hour drive back to Stedman.

It fortunately hasn't been too hard to adjust to being back in the US. I do miss France (a lot), but being nice and relaxed and having time to relax has really been good. Only really strange thing is that, now, I'm running errands on my own (driving!) and that my brother isn't yet here. In a week, though, that'll be changed. I have a few more things coming up soon, like a trip to Wisconsin and one to Colorado; I might fit a Canada trip in somewhere this summer; and... I might be headed back to France this fall. Turns out that my paperwork for the renewal wasn't rejected after all! Unfortunately, the number of posts for assistants was reduced by 20%, but there's still that glimmer of hope that I'll get to return. For that would be awesome.

So, with that, this blog shall probably lie dormant for a while until more fun adventures occur. While I didn't post as regularly as I would've liked to, I thank anyone who read this for... reading this (yeah) and, additionally, all the people in Germany and France for making my stay awesome and wonderful. It's always funny to see how things differed from what I anticipated, and it's almost always been different for the better.

Bis bald / À plus,

Larry

Tying Up the Loose Ends

These past two days have been a bit sad, in a way; they're the last days that I've worked at the lycée.

Originally, when I came to France, I was expecting a rather usual experience: most of the teaching assistants, for example, work with high school students. Instead, I got something very different, mostly with students about my age. At first, it was daunting in a way... but things got easier and, in a way, being with older students allowed me to talk more about things that they would have first-hand experience with (such as politics, cars, travel, work, etc.). So, in a way, it was a bit more rewarding and easier to relate to the students. This doesn't mean that I didn't have a good time with the seconde classes, though; I also found energetic students who were more than happy to learn and practice English, some of whom I would want to see more of if I had the chance to stick around.

I still have one day of work left at the collège before I shove off for Lyon. That, too, was great. It was disheartening to hear that previous assistants didn't like working there, and I found it hard to understand why they hated it so much: the teachers there are friendly and the students, while younger, generally less shy and less loath to speaking English and making mistakes. But maybe that's just an aspect of me being a bit of a positive person; always looking for the plus in a situation and not being discouraged by the fact that some of my students spoke not a word of English.

The hardest part of it all, though, it imagining how quickly this year's gone by. It doesn't seem like too long ago that I was getting ready for graduation from Ripon College, having my rear end handed to me by Chemical Instrumentation, and preparing to go to Germany for my BASF internship. Now, I'm looking at heading back to the US and starting graduate school in the fall. And I really wish I could get the contract renewal and spend more time here in France; with each passing day, receiving the contract renewal seems less and less likely. But the fingers are still crossed.

With regards to the election, though... some of the results were quite shocking. The second round will take place after I've returned to the US, and that also looks to be interesting. Not as interesting as 2002 was, mind you, but still a potential adventure.

Four Countries, Four Very Different Experiences

France is the fourth different country that I've lived in. Living in a place, naturally, gives you a very different view and experience compared to visiting as a tourist, and thinking about how that experience differs from those in your home country or other places you've lived can be, at minimum, somewhat different.

Not to mention that, since I don't have much longer in France, I wanted to review some of the pluses from each country that I lived in on this stay in Europe.

Germany

• Germany's public transport system is peerless in many regards: it runs on time and has very, very good coverage. Not to mention that long-distance express trains are fairly reasonably priced.
• If you don't understand something, many Germans seem more than willing to help you to understand. Or speak in English if possible. Speaking of that...
• Germans, in general, have a fairly decent level of English. It's not like in Denmark or Sweden where everybody speaks it, but finding an English speaker isn't too daunting or impossible of a task.
• Shops are generally open continuously until 8 p.m. on weekdays and Saturdays. Granted, they are almost all closed on Sundays, but that's workable. In comparison, shops in France normally close at 7 and sometimes close on other days, like Mondays (or Monday mornings).
• German bakeries are excellent. As are German meats. And candies. And food in general, truth be told.
• Food in Germany, generally, is quite a bit cheaper in comparison with France. Especially if you eat out. The fact that both France and Germany use the same currency make this even more visible.
• German bureaucracy, while it can be tiresome at times, generally runs efficiently and, in addition, assures that you will have an answer if you have a question. And that said answer will be correct. And it's easier to navigate than the French.

France

• Contrary to the stereotypes, the French (I've dealt with) are friendly and polite. Not rude. And they're delighted to hear a foreigner speaking French.
• There's a lot more of a regional identity in France: especially in Auvergne, where I currently live, people are proud to be Auvergnat and promote local products and culture to a very great degree.
• Public transit may not be as good between cities or once you get outside the city center, but it's workable and generally cheaper within the cities. (ex. €2.40 for a single ticket in Frankfurt am Main compared to €1.70 for one in Paris and €1.60-ish in Lyon). In any event, it's still much cheaper than Copenhagen.
• France has excellent bakeries and lots of delicious things.
• By and large, the French seem to prefer smaller shops a lot more to the larger ones. It's much easier to find farmers' markets here and, really, they're held with a lot more frequency.
• Where I live, temperatures are quite moderate and rarely ever horribly cold. Granted, it's not very warm right now, but that's minor.
• Local trains are nice and spacious... a bit more pleasant than the ones in Germany.

I mean, though, the experiences I've had are quite different from a social aspect: as my French is much better than my German, I'm able to (and willing to) communicate a lot more without needing to ask "Sprechen Sie Englisch?" (or "Parlez-vous anglais?") all the time. And I hate having to ask others to speak English, so it's a great asset to be able to communicate more easily here.

But, all in all, it's hard to say what I like more. I grew up in Germany, yeah, but I'm living on my own here in France and doing a job that I really love. So is the experience better here in France? In a way, probably. And yet asking me to choose which I like better is like asking if I like cake or pie more. I like them each in their own way, but I can't say I like one more than the other.

Ah, whatever. Anyways, I'm off to do a bit more exploring and wandering; without much time left before the 1st of May, I've quite a bit more I want to do. And that's part of why I want to return next year... really, why I'd prefer to do that rather than immediately heading off to grad school.

Coming soon (maybe): French election stuff! Yes, it's going on right now, and comparing it to the US Election allows for interesting comparisons to be made. It's great to discuss it with my students.