Head Wrapping

No, I did not get injured recently. But, as the year progresses, I like to report on the habits and behaviors of the (wild) Frenchman or others I notice around me, plus other stuff going on. This is one of those posts.

Let's Get Physical!

Okay, not the song, but it seems Europeans, especially the people here in France, are quite comfortable/less uncomfortable with less personal space than people in the US are. Actually, it seems like a trend in Europe in general: most people don't seem to need as much personal space. Part of it could be public transport where, a lot of times, there isn't a lot of space... sometimes, you can be crammed like a sardine (like the one time on the Metro/U-Bahn in Bonn). It's a bit hard to get used to, but I think I've gotten a lot better with it over the past 6 months. Going back to the States, though, will take some getting used to.

Frenchmen, of course, also seem rather physical and public with displays of affection. Or at least the younger ones... moreso than most of the Americans I know.

To Thou or To You, That Is the Question

In French, there are two words for you: vous, which is normally used in formal contexts and as a plural, and tu, used towards children and friends. At least it isn't like German which has three different forms (du, Sie, ihr/Ihr) or Spanish with four or five (tu, vós, Usted, Ustedes, vosotros), but, being the native speaker of a language which has all but eliminated the distinction between formal and informal you, the distinction is a bit difficult.

I work at a school. Or, rather, several schools. So I work with teachers. The normal rule with dealing with teachers, at least as a student, is that one always uses vous and polite language. I'm still younger than all the teachers here, so, when I originally came here, I just used the default vous. One teacher, however, insists that I use the tu form of address with her and said that, indeed, one can tutoie (use tu to refer to a person) the teachers here... simply put, it feels strange. Yeah, I'm not a student anymore, I'm a teacher of sorts, but I'm still so much younger than practically everyone else here, so it doesn't feel right to. In any event, it's just one of the interesting things that arise from using a language other than my own native language. Maybe I'll be more comfortable with using tu as the year progresses.

Rolling Out, Shipping Off

Tomorrow, I leave for Paris and, a few days after that, I'll be off to the US. It's going to be an interesting time, to say the least: I've not been to Paris in about 9 years (okay, I passed through earlier this year, but just for an hour) and never at Christmastime. Clermont-Ferrand is certainly pretty at this time of year, and I definitely don't expect any less from the "City of Lights".

I'm not sure where exactly I want to go while I'm there. Probably a few museums, lots of wandering and roaming around... maybe not up the Eiffel Tower, but, hey, that could change. Plus, pretty pictures are important.

As for the US, I'll be there 12 days. It'll be a good chance to buy stuff, recharge, get a lot of rest, maybe a driver's license, and pick up things that I should have originally brought with me (flags, money, literature, etc.). Since I'm a native from an Anglophone country, it's somewhat expected that I bring some of that country with me to my lessons, but I also like talking about other countries and places I've visited. To me, it's just surprising to see/hear how little people travel outside France and to other countries in Europe... then again, they live here and I'm only here for a very limited time, so I feel a bit more pressed.

French Sports: Manifestations and Grèves

Unlike in the US, the French are used to having a lot of benefits with work. One of the things about working here is, generally speaking, job security. One is entitled to a lot as a worker: at minimum, four weeks of vacation, general protection from termination at will, pay increases and promotions for good work, and the such. Naturally, if something threatens this security, one is very vocal. And that's where the strikes (grèves) come into play. Today, for example, there's a grève des professeurs where a lot of teachers decided to go on strike. Apparently, this happens several times a year. And it's a part of being in France... and I should expect more as the elections approach. Fortunately, the grèves are rather peaceful and don't involve too much violence, but they're certainly inconvenient. Especially for public transport!

While I'm not one for striking, though, it is something one can appreciate: the fact that the people here are very vocal and committed to preserving their quality of life and jobs or fighting for what they believe. I've seen several demonstrations outside the Préfecture for a wide variety of topics and, really, it's that, along with other cultural bits, which make this stay in France completely unlike my other stays in foreign countries.

It's Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas...

The month of December has arrived, and with it come all the fun things that Christmas in France entails. All throughout Clermont-Ferrand, once can see workers busily setting up lights galore, a pretty Christmas tree, a Ferris Wheel, a Christmas Market near the Place de la Victoire... the season officially starts on 3 December, so there'll probably be some pictures then. Also, over in Lyon, the Fête des Lumières will be next weekend (note to self: avoid Lyon on those days. Go earlier in the week, maybe next Wednesday, or right before I head up to Paris). Students are getting eager and anxious to go on vacation.

And I'm getting ready to head back to the US for the break... which means I have a few more things to do. Like book my return ticket to France... oh, wait, I have! I fly back to France on the 31st of December and back to North Carolina on the 1st of May, but plans are subject to change. At the very least, though, my stay in the US has the added benefit of allowing me to go on a bit of a shopping spree and acquire some things both the teachers and the students might like. So that's definitely a bonus.

However, today also marks the day when I'm now a French resident! Or at least until 1 May. After 56 days of headaches, waiting around, teeth gnashing, and lots of phone calls, I was able to run to the OFII (Office Français de l'Intégration et de l'Immigration) here in Clermont-Ferrand, give them my medical certificate and a few other papers, and walk out of the préfecture building with a nice, shiny sticker to validate my visa and allow me to stay in France until the 1st of May. I might be able to get permission to stay a bit longer, but, right now, that's the date I'm working with.

In all, work is generally going very well here. Other than the one class I have who doesn't seem to talk, either out of fear, volition, or a dislike for the assistant (hopefully not the last of them), all of my classes are great. Of course, there are always the students who don't seem to want to talk, but one group seems to be opening up a lot more and I'm now getting everyone to talk, whether it be in French mixed with English, English mixed with French, or English outright. That makes me really happy. And, of course, the teachers are also great, especially the ones at the collège: there are fewer of them, but they're almost all very friendly and very willing to put up with me butchering the French language.

So, with that, have a good rest of your week and a good start to your Christmas/holiday season.

Moving House

So, I'm taking a break from moving all of my stuff into my new apartment. It's not that I have a lot of stuff (I moved it all in one day from Germany to France), but my transportation options to get the stuff to the new place are a smidge limited. Namely, I have to use the tram, and the people here give you unhappy looks if you use up too much space on the public transport. So it's a load here, a load there, and everything should be so that I'm completely cleared out of the place at the high school by Wednesday at the latest.

I know, I was staying at the lycée for free, but I really prefer having my own space with implements for cooking, I'll be a bit closer to the collège (so no more hour-long trips!), and I'm right near the city center. Plus, if there happens to be a grève (strike), then the train station isn't too far away for me to be able to catch a train to either school.

Also, with Christmas fast approaching, things are now being decked out in colors and lights, shopping hours are being extended, and stuff is now going on sale. Plus I leave for the US in... a month. Whee. I still have a few things to plan for Paris, namely a place to stay and what all I want to visit... I mean, since I'm flying from Charles de Gaulle Airport, I might as well take the chance to visit Paris and do the sightseeing thing. I've never been to Paris in the winter, though, so it'll be a bit of a treat. I'll see about hopping over to Lyon as well before I return to NC. And I do need to buy my return plane ticket... but I'm still waiting on the visa validation, and I don't want to buy the ticket until I know when I need to return to France. And when I need to leave as well. (sigh)

But things are generally well here, and more updates will be to come. Soon-ish.

Look and Move Along

Like Germans, Frenchmen have their own quirks regarding clothes, fashion, and the such as well as stores, where things are sold, opening hours, and the such. And it's always fun to make all sorts of observations about their habits.

• I'm sleeping, you're eating: Here in France, dinner/supper time is much, much later than I'm used to, but lunches are, likewise, normally longer. Lunch here in France is often from 12-ish to 1:30 or 2 in the afternoon. Accordingly, many restaurants close by three and don't re-open normally until 7. This is in contrast to most other countries I've visited in recent memory, but a part of it also arises from lunch being a much larger meal here than dinner. In any event, if I want to go out to a non-fast food place to eat, my options are a bit limited unless I wait until late in the evening, the time when I'm normally in using my computer, playing video games, or otherwise. It's not like Spain, though, where dinner usually starts at 9 in the evening... so that's a plus.
• Metal galore: While some Germans, it seemed, had an affinity for piercings galore, the French also do, though it seems like more French men have piercings than German men. The ears and eyebrows seem rather popular. But I don't think I've seen anyone here with particularly wild hairstyles... seems a bit like the French prefer to blend in a bit more.
• Clothing makes the Frenchman: The sense of style here in France (and also in Germany) is quite a bit different from in the US. Trousers/pants, for example, rarely ride low, scarves are very popular accessories, and darker colors seem to be the norm, particularly with jackets. Also, I've very rarely, at least in France, seen any of the rather... daring things many younger women in the US seem to be fond of as of late. While clothing, in general, seems to be a bit slimmer and closer-fitting, it's very rarely revealing.
• Sorry, no smokes here: In Germany, cigarettes were available everywhere- vending machines, convenience stores, grocery stores, and the such. In France, however, that's not the case! You can only purchase cigarettes and tobacco products at a tobacconist (tabac). Tobacconists are very much like newsstands in Germany, as they often sell things such as lottery tickets, post cards, magazines, candies, newspapers, and important things called timbres fiscaux, stamps which are used to pay taxes, fines, fees for French bureaucracy, and the such. But that still doesn't seem to stop people here from smoking (a lot), even though cigarettes are about 50% more expensive than in Germany... (must avoid rant)

So, yeah, that's about it for the "observations of France" part of this post.

In interesting news, I think I may have found a more permanent place to live! It's not open until next week (the 6th), but I'll see if I can sign the rent agreement tomorrow or at some point this week. It's about average price-wise and more expensive (in all) than what I had in Germany, but the fact that it'd be my own place in the city center is all worth it. So, fingers are crossed...

Also, hopefully at the end of the break, I'll be able to get the paperwork for validating my visa going. Due to the schools being closed until the 2nd, I'm unable to check my mail, so I'm hoping that the OFII paperwork's waiting for me. As well as the last paperwork to close out my stay in Germany...

And, with that, have a good weekend.

The outsider looking in

Being taught in schools in one country definitely gives one an interesting framework through which one views the system in another country. And, having worked here for two weeks now, I've been paying a lot of attention to how the schools here work, some of the aspects of the system here in France stand out more prominently than others.

• Bell rings for a game of musical rooms- at least in the US, with most primary and secondary schools that I've seen, the usual is that the teacher remains in the same room while the students move from one room to another as needed. There are some teachers who were "nomadic", at least at my high school, who changed rooms, but those were infrequent and the rule was that teachers had their own rooms.
  Here, not so. None of the rooms are permanent, so it's a bit more like university in the US and UK: both the students and the teachers switch rooms frequently. Therefore, the "room" for the teachers is the salle des professeurs, analogous to the teacher's lounge in the US. And at both my collège and lycée, it's a rather nice little room: coffee/beverage vending machines, some snacks, computers, and the mailboxes. So, naturally, most of the teachers are in here when they don't otherwise have classes. (Or if they're not smoking a cigarette.)
• University-like scheduling- Unlike the standard in the US, where one meets for fixed periods at fixed times throughout the week, that's not what happens here. Most students will see a teacher for two to three hours per week for a total of about 30 hours of classes per week, and the teachers, accordingly, are assigned to work not the same hours. Not to mention there's a nice two-hour lunch break and several pauses de récréation throughout the day, so the students, unlike in US middle and high schools, aren't running from 8:30 to 3:30 with only a 30 minute break. In a way, it's also nice for the teachers.
• Wine for the teachers- How else would they get through the day? Okay, I know, not all of them drink it, but teachers can have wine with their meals here at the lycée. As I explained to one of the teachers I'm working with, that'd be a huge no-no in the States. Part of it, of course, comes in that most teachers drive to and from work, and the other part is that people in the US are very strict about enforcing the drinking age and prohibiting access to alcohol by people under 21, so it's slightly illegal (at least) to bring alcohol to a high school.
• Stuck together like glue- In the States, the same group of students doesn't take the same classes after elementary school: you pick your schedule and you move around. Here in France, though, it seems like the same groups of students, all chosen based on the classes they take and their degree program, move together throughout the school day for their classes.

As the year progresses, I'll have more observations to add. Probably.

What's great is that the teachers here are very friendly, and it makes me want to spend more time with them. Especially at the collège, since I'm only there for one day each week... and not at all this upcoming week, as it's vacation time! Oh, yeah, and the French are serious about vacations: the normal rhythm here is 6 weeks on and 2 weeks off, it feels, with two months instead for the vacances d'été. Next week are the vacances de Toussaint, and they last until the 3rd of November (well, in any event, I go back to work on the 4th).

So, yeah, have a good week/weekend, and more stuff will probably materialize over break.

Qu'un sang impur abreuve nos sillons!

I've been here in the beautiful Auvergne region for about two weeks now, and I must say that I'm impressed. It's been a bit of an adventure, especially with a public transportation strike the first few days I was here, but it's otherwise been great so far.

Part of why I waited a bit to write some more is because I wanted to actually work with my students for the first time and see what I was working with. As I mentioned before, I'm working at a collège in a suburb of Clermont-Ferrand for 3 hours per week and the remaining 9 hours are at a lycée in the southeastern part of the city. I did meet the teachers (or most of them, at least) and many of the students, and it's going to be fun. The teachers are all incredibly nice, always willing to help (it seems) and friendly in general. In all, I'm working with six different teachers and a total of twelve different classes, each class for one hour per week and generally up to about 15 people in a class (so the sometimes large classes are split up).

At the collège, I'm right now working with students in troisième (3e), so they're all from 13 to 16 years old and preparing for the brevet, an examination given at the end of the year that determines what school they're best suited for at the lycée level. As for the lycée, I'm working with both students in seconde (2e) and post-baccalauréat students who are completing a technical program before licensure rather than immediately going to university. The system here in France is, needless to say, a bit different than that in the US, and one of the lessons I do have planned is a discussion about the differences between the educational systems and, really, how the US high-school experience is different from that in France. And, as I'm working a lot with the speaking skills of the students, talking about more "interesting" topics should help with sparking their interests and, really, getting them to speak.

As for the speaking, well... most of the students are very timid, it seems. I hope to get them to speak more, and it'll hopefully get better as time passes.

So, that's it really in a nutshell. Now for some quick tidbits/observations:

• Beer is sold in fast food restaurants, like McDonald's. Conversely, it's sold very rarely at those in Germany, from what I remember.
• Prices here in France are hit-or-miss compared to Germany. Sometimes, they're quite a bit cheaper (especially for food), but most of the time it's roughly the same price or a bit more. What's interesting, though, is that more food is taxed at the lower VAT rate here in France than in Germany (so, here, soft drinks are taxed at 5.5% rather than 19.6%, whereas they're subject to the full 19% in Germany).
• Getting around Clermont-Ferrand is a bit different: it's mostly bus-based, but there is a tram line that, conveniently, is right near where I'm currently staying. And tickets are a bit cheaper here compared to in Germany (and the UK, for that matter).
• House hunting is... well, different. The terminology is rather different, rules for renting are stricter for both ends, and the prices may or may not have charges (utilities) included. So it's really a case of looking very carefully at the fine print.

So, yeah, it'll be a good seven months, I don't doubt. And, with that, have a good rest of your week.

Bis Bald, Deutschland

Today, I will be bidding Germany farewell yet again as I leave for the environs of France at just shy of 10 in the morning. A longer update will be posted once I'm situated in my new country.

Farewell, Germany; good-bye, BASF. It's been fun. When will I be back? Who knows. Hopefully sooner rather than later.